Tibet 1.3 - Onto Xizang... Almost... Maybe? (June 18-19)

Yet another hitch in the trip. We are stuck at the boarder of Tibet waiting for the tourist visas we have to apply for in order to pass this particular boarder crossing. We have scientific permits, however we are crossing at a checkpoint intended for tourists. As a result the boarder guard wants us to get tourist permits. “Welcome to China.” As a result, we are sending someone back, with our passports, to get the tourist permits in one of region offices in some nearby city. You will notice that it doesn’t matter that your scientific permits are from a higher authority than where you get your tourist permits, you still have to pay your dues to the local powers that be.

On top of this we’ve had our fair share of car (and driver) issues. We started off with four vehicles, but one broke down in Shangrila, so now were down to 3 vehicles and one of these is having starting problems. This problem started in Shangrila, and was apparently fixed, but has since re-surfaced here at the border crossing. On top of that, there are clashing egos between the drivers when it comes to fixing the problem. The driver of the problematic car, is insisting on fixing the car himself and refuses to listen to another driver that claims to know what the problem is. There seems to be a lot of boasting about vehicle maintenance. Fortunately, the drivers seem to have resolved the problem yesterday and the car is now running. Jun was exasperated. Too many things have gone wrong this early in the trip.

Another somewhat amusing issue is that the driver of the troubled car has habitually been making wrong turns. We were trying to find a lake, near Shangrila, to collect by when we went down a wrong road while he was in the lead. There were a lot of turns and the mistake could have been forgiven, but unfortunately it wasn’t and isolated incident. When traveling from Shangrila the next day, he missed the bridge crossing the Yangzee, taking us to the boarder crossing with Sichuan instead of heading for Deqin. That probably set us back about an hour. Then when leaving Deqin for the Tibetian boarder the next day, he raced ahead and took a right, heading back toward Shangrila. Suffice to say, he’s no longer driving in front of the caravan.










In the meantime, were staying at a very ill-conceived resort style hotel in Yan Jing. They have nice amenities. Relaxing settings. I can see and hear the roaring (and murky) Mekong river out my window. The resort was built around some local hot-springs. Part of the problematic over-development of the region. Though this place can boast having natural hot springs, it is too remote of a location. You need a 4x4 to weave through the small village and undeveloped roads to get to this moderately palatial, yet eerily empty hotel. With the exception of perhaps one other family, we are the only ones here. Reminds me of The Shining.

Anyway, we should be getting our permits this morning. It’s been a relaxing stop and I think I’ve caught up with my photos and writing for now. I should be getting at my postcards soon, but who knows when the next post office will be.

Hope all of you are well...

Bisoux,
The Yak Whisperer...

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