Monday, October 26, 2009

Tibet 1.8 - The Mystic Valley (July 1 2009)


I love the forested parts of Tibet. Here we are so high, the forest looks like it is on fire with all the clouds clinging to the mountains like smoke. Yesterday we landed next to a beautiful alpine lake. The lake is fed by glacial waters and as a result is completely turquoise in color. On the lake is a small island on which sits a buddhist temple. Prior to our arrival, Jun referred to this area as a hidden treasure. Well hidden it is no longer. They (the Chinese government) has expanded and paved the roads, built a parking lot for cars and tour buses, and are building a large visitors center in order to charge tourist who come into the area. From what I can tell, admission to the area is pretty much limited to visiting the temple on the island, yet from what I understand, newly built footbridges too the island.

Anyway, we are staying at a ‘resort’ of sorts. I share a little cottage with Jun, Jackie and Sue. There is a nice front porch where we can hang out on and watch all the pigs and piglets rooting in the surrounding yard.

Today we ended up collecting in a place that I like to call the mystical valley. To get there we had to go down a dirt road that was restricted by a gate. We had to wake up the guard who was fast asleep in a windowless shack. It was kind of amusing as we could hear him fumbling in the dark of his little hut for some clothes only to stumble groggy, hair a mess, into the daylight, to let a few American and Chinese scientists through his gate. Despite the inconvenience to him, he seemed quite amicable. Probably the most action he would see all day from his relatively remote corner of China.

As we drove I noticed what seemed to be many new buildings that I assumed represent the increasing prosperity among the Tibetan people. I can only imagine that it is compensation from the Chinese government for the commercialization of the lake area. I feel safe in this assumptions since I noticed that the frequency of new homes dropped off the farther into the valley, and from the lake, we traveled. As we drove the stone Tibetan homes were less frequent as the communities were built up with the traditional rustic log-cabin type structure.

The the farther we got into the valley, the more remote the setting and more breathtaking the scenery became. The valley stretch off in either direction, fading into the distance behind a mist of clouds and rain. The river that wound through the valley, and the one that fed our lake, was the same beautiful turquoise like the lake. On the opposite side of the valley you could see the white cascades of a massive waterfall that, even from a distance, trembled with a roar you could feel in you chest. Though it was the clouds and rain overcast the valley you could still make out the shadowy peaks that silhouetted through the mists. As these were the immediate peaks that shown through the low-lying mists, I imagined that on the ridge behind loomed even larger and more ominous mountains.

Part of the mystical quality of this valley was the feeling of being in a place that few outsiders experience. We drove as far as we could into this valley with our vehicles. There was no road after this, though we knew the valley

and the Tibetan communities that lived there continued on. Many of these communities live entirely off the land and their livestock. Yaks, horses, pigs and other livestock roam the land freely. One amusing moment was when a yak started following Jun. She didn’t know what to do, or why the animal was following her, but decided to keep moving. The yak, perhaps recognizing it’s mistake, soon left her alone. Later on we noticed something that might explain the animal’s bizarre behavior. While we were eating lunch a Tibetan woman was chatting with and luring her yaks back to her home. They seemed to be like puppies or dogs following their master. I noticed she was wearing red and wondered if the yaks had become imprinted to the color. Until Jun came to the valley with her red jacket, the Tibetan woman’s sweater was really the only thing in the valley that was that color. Anyway, an amusing episode to say the least.

Since there was so much livestock around the meadow, the place seemed heavily grazed. Not unlike every other place in this part of the world where people depend upon their animals for subsistence. However, that didn’t stop there from being numerous species of Primula, Ranunculus and other herbacious flowers carpeting the ground. Toward the edges of the valley, the forest creeped into the meadow with, fur and spruce trees. This is where I started to look for fungi and found some nice stuff. An Inocybe, a few Amanitas, and a nice Gymnopus collection. I’m particularly interested in the Gymnopus I’ve been finding considering it was the topic of my master’s thesis. I like to see if any of the species I’ve been collecting add up to something new.

The day was interspersed with rain. There were some buzzkill moments when we lost our other mycologist, Feng, in the woods. Apparently he did not realize, that when we stopped briefly on the drive back to look at the plants that it was supposed to be short. We ended up losing track of him in the rain and cold for about an hour. He turned up though, and on the way back found a monster Leccinum. Obviously this turns and old addage on it's head into, “No bad deed goes unrewarded.”

Later, the sun ended up coming out and we made yet another stop where there were no fungi. So I ended up assisting the botanists and ended up collecting what Jun tells me is a new plant species.... Go figure! Glad I could help.

I loved this place. It was definitely one of the more enchanting moments of my trip....

Cheers,
Andy...

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Tibet 1.7 - When they stick their tongue out at you... (July 30)

Yesterday I was in Bayi, which I guess is the second largest city in Xizang. Our group was walking to lunch and I noticed an elderly Tibetan woman walking in the same direction, spinning her prayer wheel and glancing at me. Many of the places we’ve been have not been opened up to tourists other than Chinese, so me and my western colleagues have been the recipients of many a curious stare. This made me uneasy until I learned that all I had to do was smile and give a nod or a wave. Such a simple gesture seemed to break through the awkward barriers of uneasiness and insecurity as the locals responded eagerly in kind. From perplexed to enchanted, almost every Tibetan returned a big ol’ grin and waved back. I was told Tibetans were friendly, but experiencing it is something else. I can only imagine that they must have been told the same thing about westerners.

Anyway, I did the same trick with the woman on the street, but her response was quite new to me. She stuck her tongue out at me! Now, it wasn’t your typical “nya-nya, na-nya-nya” type tongue, but more of the tongue-depressor type tongue.... (Sorry, that’s the best visual I could come up with.) If I wasn’t reading Peter Hopkirk’s “Trespassers on the Roof of the World”, I wouldn’t quite know what to make of this. Apparently, the sticking out of the tongue in this fashion is a traditional greeting in Tibet. After the woman did this, it did take me a little time to process it and I found myself thinking about it at lunch. In the end, I felt rather touched to have experience such and interaction.

“An old Tibetan woman stuck her tongue out at me in greeting.”

How many people can say that?

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Tibet 1.6 - It’s good to be a Ph.D.

One of the luxuries I’ve been able to enjoy on the trip is the fact that I’ve been given my own room at every location we’ve been. A few months ago I would not have gotten this treatment, and to be honest, didn’t quite expect it now. My understanding is that it comes with the addition of a few extra letters to my name, and the fact that with these letters you are essentially promoted to another class of citizen here in China.
Anyway, I wanted to introduce the team:

Jun Wen - Smithsonian Curator, botanist, and organizer of the trip. Rick Ree described her as a “Force of Nature”. That almost sums her up.

Sue Lutz - Jun’s assistant from the Smithsonian.

Jackie Van De Viere - U of Ill. at Chicago/Field Museum graduate student. Working on systematics of Primula.

Nie Ze-Long - Associate Professor, Kunming Institute of Botany. One of the co-organizers of the trip.

Xie Lie - Postdoc in botany and KIB. Also did a 1 year postdoc with Jun at the Smithsonian and was one of the people to pick me up at the airport.

Yang Fusheng - Associate Professor, Institute of Botany Beijing. Nice guy, but don’t know much about him.

Niu Yong - Ph.D. student in botany, KIB. Nice guy. Good with photography. Accompanied Jackie on some of her previous fieldwork in China.

Li Gudong - One of the youngest graduate students. Masters student in botany at KIB. Has been given the task of booking our rooms and coordinating our meals at each stop. I wonder if he had gotten stuck with this job because he’s the ‘rookie’ so-to-speak.

Feng Bang - Ph.D. student in mycology at KIB. He has an interest in ectomycorrhizal fungi (who doesn’t?). He has also helped me to identify some of the fungi we’ve collected. Found a gynormous Leccinum (see picture).

Hu Yongfu - AKA ‘Rodney’ becuse he reminded us of Rodney Dangerfield. A bit of a jokester. He drives the little red Mitsubishi van that goes by the nickname ‘little red’. He’s also seems to be a bit of a cheapskate as he tries to get the other drivers to take all the luggage because it weighs down his car and reduces his gas milage.

Zhang Xiaopeng - Drives the white Toyota van which has become the “support vehicle” that carries most of our luggage and the botany supplies. He’s also a bit fond of barley wine as he ended up purchasing 10 cases of it when getting supplies for the trip. This pissed Jun off to say the least.

Ma Hongqi - Driver of the silver Mitsubishi SUV. Seems to have problems with directions as earlier in the trip he was continuously making wrong turns. Once we started heading into Sichuan instead of Xi’zang (Tibet) because he went strait instead of crossing a bridge. That put us back by about an hour. He’s also ‘Muslim”. I put that in quotes because he doesn’t eat with us since most every meal has a pork dish, but I have seen him sit down at the dinner table to drink beer. That confuses me because I didn’t think drinking alcohol was permitted in Islam. Perhaps he practices a particular brand of islam where it is permitted.

Anyway, that’s the crew. An interesting bunch, and for the most part, we all seem to get along pretty well.

Andy...

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Tibet 1.5 - Finally some real fungi... - June 27th


Sorry it’s been a while since my last report. After our stop in Markam we were in Bomi. There the fungal collections picked up quite a bit. I’ve also somewhat intensified my attempt at video documenting. I’m fortunate that my new Macbook Pro has the capacity to handle all the photos and video that I’ve been collecting. It’s becoming a challenge to try and keep up with the management of my files, collect and describe fungi, and video document this trip. Sadly my attempts to keep a traditional scrapbook/journal of my trip has fallen by the wayside. I’ve even failed to collect one beer label to put in the book, though that’s not to say that I haven’t been drinking beer. At least I got a Tibetan sticker for the front of my journal. In retrospect, I guess I should be somewhat glad that collecting fungi hasn’t been all that intense. Otherwise I would not have been able to document the trip as much as I have.













But that seems to have changed as of yesterday. Right now I’m in Linzhi Xian (xian = county) and we are staying in the village of Lulang. Yesterday we went to a mixed terrestrial alpine forest, very much like what you’d find in N. America, and I was able to make close to 20 collections. I was able to get some spore prints from the few Laccaria specimens I collected, which made me happy. So the trip has picked up a bit for me on the scientific end. I’ll only have a few more days of being in this kind of habitat so we’ll have to see how many more collections I can make. In the meantime, I’m going to try to document the trip as well as I can.

Before arriving here in Linzhi we were in the town of Bomi for several days (June 21-23). An interesting town surrounded by tall, snow capped mountains. I’m amused by the inquisitive stares by all the locals. Westerners don’t come to this part of China. Most Tibetans have never seen the likes of people like me. I love their reactions whenever I stare back and suddenly smile and wave with a jolly “Hello!” Their first response is a somewhat startled surprise, but it is quickly followed by enthusiastic smiles and responses of “Hello” in kind. It’s always a revelation for me how much weight and power a simple gesture of friendship and respect can carry. I guess it also helps that the Tibetan people are unabashedly curious and friendly to begin with.

Today we visited a subtropical forest. There we were met by the other extreme of moisture that prevents mushrooms from fruiting. The coolest part about the trip was the old bridge that we had to cross. Apparently the path we used was an old road that would take you all the way to India. Besides the lack of fungi, the moisture provided optimal conditions for leeches. Sue got initiated finally. She’s seems sufficiently creeped out by the whole experience.

I realize that I haven’t introduced my colleagues on the trip. I’ll have to do that for the next installment.

Cheers,
andy...

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Tibet 1.4 - Out of the Mekong (~ June 20th)


Not without mishap, we made our way into Tibet (AKA Xizang). My god what a country! Most of my time has been spent in a car or watching my fellow scientists collecting plants along the side of the road. My disappointment of having collected only 6 specimens in the last 5 days has been sufficiently buffeted by the sheer awe of the landscape. I don’t believe I’ve seen or experienced a more naturally beautiful part of the world, and being from California where my youth was spent traveling in the Sierras and Yosemite, I have a decent basis for comparison. Traveling along these bumpy roads I’m constantly finding myself scrambling for my camera so I can take another shot of a beautiful mountaintop, a stupa with prayer flags silhouetted against a mountain range, or a beautifully decorated Tibetan home in a lush alpine valley. I hope that my pictures convey at least a fraction of what I’ve experienced in my travels. If you ever have the opportunity to visit Tibet, see what you can do to take the overland route. You will be spending plenty of time on dusty, dirty, bumpy roads, but if you enjoy the natural beauty of mountains, Tibet will definitely fill your heart and spark your imagination. No doubt.

Part of this country’s enchantment comes from the people. They add to the beauty of this land in such a profound way. Colorful, and not just figuratively. From their homes to their dress, they seem to be drawn to bright primary colors. Seems fitting since much of the landscape is primarily dusty and grey. Almost every local stares at us, seemingly transfixed with curiosity. The ones we’ve met have been very gracious, bold and bashful all at the same time. Just today we stopped at a spot to collect some plants and there were a couple men and women there selling herbs along the side of the road. Apparently, they sell these medicinal plants to the Chinese tourists that drive by. However, they were curious enough about what my botanist colleagues were doing and eventually wanted to help. A couple women helped Sue lay out and press the specimens, while Jun sent the guys out to help find and collect different plant species. In the end she ended up giving them about 30 yuan for their help, which is about what they would make in a day by selling their plants, or so I’m told. In dollar terms that's about $5. Seems like we were taking advantage of them, but in retrospect, they were very eager to help, and apparently earned their day's wages in the 30 minutes they spent with us. I like to think that we made their day more interesting, if not better. They certainly made ours.

Though I may whine a bit about not having found my precious mushrooms, I’m probably most chagrined by the fact that were beginning to enter a part of Tibet that has the potential to be prime mushroom country. There are tons of conifers, mostly consisting of Abies and Picea, but there have been some Pinus as well as Larix around. There are also plenty of Juniperus and other evergreen shrubby plants at the higher elevations so there’s got to be ectomycorhizal fungi about.

More later....
andy....

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Tibet 1.3 - Onto Xizang... Almost... Maybe? (June 18-19)

Yet another hitch in the trip. We are stuck at the boarder of Tibet waiting for the tourist visas we have to apply for in order to pass this particular boarder crossing. We have scientific permits, however we crossing at a checkpoint intended for tourists. As a result the boarder guard wants us to get tourist permits. “Welcome to China.” As a result, we are sending someone back, with our passports, to one of the major nearby cities so they can get the tourist permits at one of the regional offices. You will notice that it doesn’t matter that our scientific permits are from a higher authority that where you get your tourist permits, you still have to pay your dues to the local powers that be.

On top of this we’ve had our fair share of car (and driver) issues. We started off with four vehicles, but one broke down in Shangrila, so now were down to 3 vehicles and one of these is having starting problems. This problem started in Shangrila, and was apparently fixed, but has since re-surfaced here at the border crossing. On top of that, there are clashing egos between the drivers when it comes to fixing the problem. The driver of the problematic starting car, is insistent on fixing the car himself and refuses to listen to another driver that claims to know what the problem is. There seems to be a lot of boasting about vehicle maintenance. Fortunately, the drivers seem to have resolved the problem yesterday and the car is now running. Jun was exasperated. Too many things have gone wrong this early in the trip.

Another somewhat amusing issue is that the driver of the troubled car has habitually been making wrong turns. We were trying to find a lake near Shangrila to collect by when we went down a wrong road while he was in the lead. There were a lot of turns and the mistake could have been forgiven, but unfortunately it wasn’t and isolated incident. When traveling from Shangrila the next day, he missed the bridge crossing the Yangzee, taking us to the boarder crossing with Sichuan instead of headed for Deqin. That probably set us back about an hour. Then when leaving Deqin the next day, he raced ahead and took a right, heading back toward Shangrila, instead of taking a left toward the Tibetan border. Suffice to say, he’s no longer driving in front of the caravan.










In the meantime, were staying at a very ill-conceived resort style hotel in Yan Jing. They have nice amenities. Relaxing settings. I can see and hear the roaring (and murky) Mekong river out my window. The resort was built around some local hot-springs. Part of the problematic over-development of the region. Though this place can boast having natural hot springs, it is too remote of a location. You need a 4x4 to weave through the small village and undeveloped roads to get to this moderately palatial, yet eerily empty hotel. With the exception of perhaps one other family, we are the only ones here. Reminds me of The Shining.

Anyway, we should be getting our permits this morning. It’s been a relaxing stop and I think I’ve caught up with my photos and writing for now. I should be getting at my postcards soon, but who knows when the next post office will be.

Hope all of you are well...

Bisoux,
The Yak Whisperer...

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Tibet 1.2 - Shangrila-Deqin (June 16-18)

If only allowed one word to describe my trip thus far I would have to use exhilarating. In part due to the breathtaking beauty of a country in which I’ve only experienced a fraction of. It is also the white knuckle kind of exhilarating when you are traveling a few thousand vertical meters high, skirting along the side of a mountain on narrow two-lane roads that you share with massive construction vehicles and trucks. I find myself torn between the wonder of the beautiful countryside and the edge of the precipice from which our car is only traveling a few feet from.

Now I’m going to cheat and choose another word. Frustrating. I keep having to remind myself that I’m fortunate to have been invited on such and expedition, unfortunately, much of the trip has been an exercise in patience. I’m trying to avoid the feeling that I’m wasting my time here. Yes its great to be in Tibet to study fungi, and yes its nice to make acquaintances with other scientists, and to be experiencing one of the most enigmatic and wondrous places on earth, however at this point fungi collecting pales by far in contrast to the success of the botanical collecting. I’ve literally spent hours sitting or wandering around with nothing to do in the field because it’s too dry for mushrooms. However, the plant collecting is great cause many things are in flower right now. The first collecting site was beautiful. I felt as if I was in the Sierras. Lots of spruce and fir with some birch and even Larix. I’m sure the fungi collecting here is great during the right time of season. Right now it’s way too dry. Regardless, Jun has promised that we will find fungi in the wetter habitats of Tibet. I’m looking forward to that.

Thus far I’ve experience two cities in western Yunnan province that serve as introductions to the Tibetan as well as many of the other Western cultures of China. The cities and counties of Shangrila and Deqin were written up in the recent issue of National Geographic (2009, Vol 215, no. 5). The article does a nice job of describing the region and culture here. I’ve seen many of the features and photos in the article, from Mt. Kawagebo, to the giant Fortune Victory Prayer Wheel. The natural beauty of this place has been the most inspiring. Something I can really only sum up in pictures. That, I hope to have up on my picasa page soon.

Enough for now....