Postcards from Malaysia part 1: Stinkhorns and tigers and bureaucrats oh my!
So it’s been over a week since I left on my trip so it’s about time I started doing this web log thing, or more unflatteringly referred to as blogging. Who came up with that name and why did they get to decide for everyone else?
So my trip to Malaysia was fairly enjoyable if long. Boston to Oakland was mostly uneventful, but left me with a tension headache when I arrive. Lunch, a quick nap, shower and ibuprofen cleared things up and allowed me to spend the night in the great company of mom, George and Nancy and their beautiful apartment in SF. The next day dear mum saw me off at SFO and I began the first leg to Incheon Airport outside Seoul Korea. I spent more than I wanted at the luxurious transit hotel there, but I must say 12 hours of rest for my layover was worth it. The next day I began my 6 hour trip to Kuala Lumpur, otherwise known as KL.
The Malaysians love their acronyms. I arrived at KLIA in fair shape, took the KLIA ekspress to KL sentral, then took a teksi to my hotel. All was well… until the next day.
So onto plan B.
As an “unofficial scientific observer” I accompanied UM students to Endau Rompin. It’s one of the largest and oldest primary rainforests in Malaysia, if not in all of SE Asia. Apparently, Agnes (The UM student who’s serving as my guide) has found the fungus I’m studying, Calostoma, in Endau Rompin. However we were going to another part of the forest since the accommodations were completely booked at the first site. The place we were at is relatively remote. From KL it was a 4-5 hour road ride, then another
1.5-2 hours on dirt roads, a good 2/3rds of it through palm tree plantations that stretched as far as the eye could see. Apparently Malaysia is the largest palm oil producer in the world. The last 45 minutes or so was through the forest. Looking at the map you could see we were still just on the edge. We hadn’t penetrated the deep forest as there are not roads that go all the way in. Upon consideration I believe it’s best that way.
Anyway, no Calostoma was found (though there is this weird brown thing that only molecules can describe), but wow what a cool trip! 
There was plenty going on there with the beautiful insects (butterflies and giant Atlas beetles), reptiles/amphibians (good picts for mom), elephant signs, tiger tracts, awesome birds, monkeys…. And yes even some other cool fungi such as bright orange Agarics and glorious stinkhorns a little past their prime. Plenty of leeches too, I got nailed a few times. Though they weren’t as knarly as the mosquitoes. It’s been 3 days since I got back and I’m still counting the bites.
Oh and one more thing. Just so you know, the “American Dream” is alive and well on the far side
of the world. I had breakfast at this Dunkin’ D in Incheon Airport in Korea. And while I went to the Kinokuniya bookstore at the upscale mall at the base of the Petronas Towers, I couldn’t help but wonder… then I turned the corner and there it was! Dunkin’ Donuts Kuala Lumpur…
More adventures to come!
Love n’ Stuff
Andy…
So my trip to Malaysia was fairly enjoyable if long. Boston to Oakland was mostly uneventful, but left me with a tension headache when I arrive. Lunch, a quick nap, shower and ibuprofen cleared things up and allowed me to spend the night in the great company of mom, George and Nancy and their beautiful apartment in SF. The next day dear mum saw me off at SFO and I began the first leg to Incheon Airport outside Seoul Korea. I spent more than I wanted at the luxurious transit hotel there, but I must say 12 hours of rest for my layover was worth it. The next day I began my 6 hour trip to Kuala Lumpur, otherwise known as KL.The Malaysians love their acronyms. I arrived at KLIA in fair shape, took the KLIA ekspress to KL sentral, then took a teksi to my hotel. All was well… until the next day.
I took the LRT to UM to meet up with Agnes so we could go to the EPU and pick up my permit to perform research in Malaysia. And it was not ready… simply put, it’s been mired in a bureaucratic mess.
I submitted my application over a month before the trip, however little did I know how many hands it had to pass through before it can get final approval. Since I had applied to do research in at least 4 different states, appropriate officials from each of these regions had to sign off before I could get approval to do any research anywhere. Not only this, but afterwards, I learned that final approval would be done by a committee and that this committee would not meet until June 7th….
“Hello? I’m leaving on June 15th…. It was all in my proposal… Ever think to bother filling me in on the apparent conflict?”… Of course not.
So onto plan B.
As an “unofficial scientific observer” I accompanied UM students to Endau Rompin. It’s one of the largest and oldest primary rainforests in Malaysia, if not in all of SE Asia. Apparently, Agnes (The UM student who’s serving as my guide) has found the fungus I’m studying, Calostoma, in Endau Rompin. However we were going to another part of the forest since the accommodations were completely booked at the first site. The place we were at is relatively remote. From KL it was a 4-5 hour road ride, then another
1.5-2 hours on dirt roads, a good 2/3rds of it through palm tree plantations that stretched as far as the eye could see. Apparently Malaysia is the largest palm oil producer in the world. The last 45 minutes or so was through the forest. Looking at the map you could see we were still just on the edge. We hadn’t penetrated the deep forest as there are not roads that go all the way in. Upon consideration I believe it’s best that way.
Anyway, no Calostoma was found (though there is this weird brown thing that only molecules can describe), but wow what a cool trip! 
There was plenty going on there with the beautiful insects (butterflies and giant Atlas beetles), reptiles/amphibians (good picts for mom), elephant signs, tiger tracts, awesome birds, monkeys…. And yes even some other cool fungi such as bright orange Agarics and glorious stinkhorns a little past their prime. Plenty of leeches too, I got nailed a few times. Though they weren’t as knarly as the mosquitoes. It’s been 3 days since I got back and I’m still counting the bites.
Now I’m back in KL, getting used to the pace of life. It’s hot and muggy, but surprisingly, not as bad as I thought it might be. Tomorrow we head out for a day trip south to a spot where I collected Calostoma last time. Again I’m going as and observer. ;’) Later next week I head back to Frasier’s Hill to check to see if any of my lovelies are fruiting there. Then it’s off to Borneo.
Oh and one more thing. Just so you know, the “American Dream” is alive and well on the far side
of the world. I had breakfast at this Dunkin’ D in Incheon Airport in Korea. And while I went to the Kinokuniya bookstore at the upscale mall at the base of the Petronas Towers, I couldn’t help but wonder… then I turned the corner and there it was! Dunkin’ Donuts Kuala Lumpur…
...in all it’s glory.
More adventures to come!
Love n’ Stuff
Andy…
Comments
Speaking of Calostoma, I intend to send some your way or bring some with me when I move up there next month (assuming you're due to be back). I know a great spot for finding them here if the rain picks up a bit.
In the meantime, happy hunting! See you soon.
Brian S.
See ya again.
Joanes U.
Joanes U.